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  #1  
Old 12-01-2013
London London is offline
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Default ignition warning light

Hi

I am restoring my series V. Can't get the ignition warning light to light up or go out!

The red wire to the bulb in the ignition warning light is live and I can short the bulb to light it with a screw driver.

However the white lead (out) seems not to be earthed ?? or transmit when the ignition is on. Where does the white wire go? And how can I get the warning light to function? Manual says nothing about.

Thanks
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  #2  
Old 12-01-2013
Tom H Tom H is offline
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The worshop manual 145 tells you everythig you need to know. See pages 20 and 26 here:

http://www.rootes1725cc.info/wsm145/WSM_N/N.htm


Note that the wite wire goes to the the fuesholder where all the other white wires go and the other wire goes to relay warning light control relay, a small aluminum cylinder anout the diameter of a quarter.

If you no longer have the stock alternator setup it wll be wired differently. Do you know what you have?

Tom
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  #3  
Old 12-01-2013
London London is offline
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Default ignition warning light problem

Tom

Thanks for your helpful comment

Pretty certain I have the stock alternator - will check - I am away today from the car.

Will check your instructions and the manual too and get back

So the white wire goes to the fuse holder - would have thought that was the live wire then??

Electrics not my strength!!

Tony
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  #4  
Old 12-01-2013
Tom H Tom H is offline
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In Alpine color code, the white circuit is the Live wire when the Ign switch is ON. Switched , but unfused. Brown wires are live from the battery, unswitched, unfused. Green wires are swiched and fused.

Tom
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  #5  
Old 12-02-2013
London London is offline
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Default igntion warning light

Hi Tom and others

Help again.

I have the stock alternator. Still cant get the ignition warning lite to lite normally when ign on!!

Checking the wires at the warning light again, both are live with the ignition on(so current flowing) but the the bulb does not lite. However if I earth the case of the warning lite with a testing screwdriver it lights up!!

I have checked the warning light simulator relay connections at the relay and earth - all good.

I have replace the simulator with solid state from cool cats as the old one
dented and heated up.

Any ideas as to whats up gratefully received

Thanks in advance

Tony
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  #6  
Old 12-02-2013
mattinoz mattinoz is offline
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Tony, if my meager understanding of how this works is correct, both sides of the lamp are live when the engine is running, hence the light is off, no current flow. When the engine speed and therefore the genny output drops below 12v the lamp will begin to glow, ever brighter as genny speed slows until engine stops and light is at its brightest. So the wiring should look something like this, 12v from ignition switch to one side of lamp. The other side to the fuse block which is feed by the genny, so that its output volts govern how much current flows to the lamp.
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  #7  
Old 12-02-2013
Tom H Tom H is offline
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First a little electrical understanding is needed. I reposted your msg here:

"I have the stock alternator. Still cant get the ignition warning lite to lite normally when ign on!!

Checking the wires at the warning light again, both are live with the ignition on (so current flowing)."

Wrong- when both sides are live (12 V) then you know that no current is flowing (except a tenee, tenne bit into the voltmeter) , not enough to light the lamp. Of course the bulb does not lite. That tells you that the lamp is good and that there is 12 V coming into the socket. The problem is at the other lead.

"However if I earth the case of the warning lite with a testing screwdriver it lights up!!" OK, so now you have learned further confirmation of what I said above. You see that the lamp lites when one side is 12 V and the other is zero (or near zero) . That concept needs to be embedded in your mind! Imagine if you connected both ends of a lamp to the Pos terminal of a battery. Of course it doesn't light. Gotta connect one end to Pos and one end to ground. Next imagine if you connected just one end of a lamp, to the Pos term of a battery and then measured the voltage at each lead of the lamp.You'll measure 12 V at one side and about 11.99999 at the other. You'd need an expensive meter to see the diff. For practical purposes it's the same voltage. In fact one of my first tests on a tailight to see if I have a ground problem is to measure the voltage on the housing or holder. If I have a bad ground the housing is at 12 V instead of 0 Volts (ground). Of course it would also read zero if the bulb was open/dead. But that zero reading would probably be a very noisy zero reading and not a solid, steady zero.

"I have checked the warning light simulator relay connections at the relay and earth - all good." I assume you checked them by looking at them. This where your problem is. I assume, with Key ON, if you measure the voltage at term WL ( Brn/ Blk wire) on that relay (the round aluminum one), you measure 12 V. and if you touch that wire to chassis, the warning lamp lights. Next measure the voltage on the case of teh relay. it shoupod be "0" V. If it is not 0, then it is not well grounded. The question then is simply why is the relay not connecting this to ground- either bad relay or wrong wires connected to wrong pins. Or maybe there is 12 V at terminal AL. See page 20 on the WSM section I linked. With the motor not running there should be no voltage coming to pin AL from the Alt and the relay should switch the warning light wire to ground and light it.

"I have replace the simulator with solid state from cool cats as the old one
dented and heated up." Not sure if you did this after trying to get it working after the above efforts or is this the the only relay you have used. Be sure you have the black wire grounded, and the orange wire connected to the Brn Blk wire. and the yellow wire to the yellow brown. Might try disconnecting the Yellow wire. That might let the lamp go on but not let it go off. would give us a clue to the real problem

Matt is somewhat on target , but he fails to realize that there is a relay involved that turns the lamp OFF when the volatge from the Alt get high enough, so no dimmer / brighter, just On or OFF

Tom

Last edited by Tom H : 12-02-2013 at 08:41 PM.
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  #8  
Old 12-03-2013
London London is offline
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Default igntion warning light

Wow Tom

Thanks

An encyclopedia - hope I can understand it - will go through your note thoroughly tomorrow with the car!

Will let you know

Tony
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  #9  
Old 12-03-2013
Tom H Tom H is offline
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Tony, just a lot of words, but the concepts are simple. But ya gotta get that concept, so I try to explain several ways. If you don't get it, we'll try the phone.

Tom
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  #10  
Old 12-03-2013
London London is offline
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Default igntion warning light

Hi Tom

Did most of the tests. Skipped to the AL as I knew it was live from my earlier tests

I found:

1. There seems to be voltage at the AL terminal all the time with the ignition on or off! Even when I disconnect from the relay ( the wire coming from alternator is live) and battery connected

Guess thats why the battery runs down unless disconnected and the original aluminum relay got hot just sitting!

2. When I disconnect the yellow wire from yellow and brown the ignition warning light goes on - as per your test!

So some how the alternator lead, AL is delivering voltage permanently!

Whats going on - ideas most welcome and what should I test next?

Thanks in advance

Tony

Tony
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