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  #11  
Old 6 Days Ago
Paul A Paul A is offline
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Join Date: Jan 2007
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New replacement solid state voltage stabilizer units are available from Moss Motors. Both positive and negative units are listed in their catalog. $14.99

https://mossmotors.com/solid-state-v...nd?assoc=22966
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  #12  
Old 6 Days Ago
loose_electron loose_electron is offline
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Getting the below "stabilizer" is the way to go if you are using original gauges for sure.

The original setup was prior to the widespread use of the transistor. Some of the hacks they used to make things work were creative.

As an electrical engineer re-wiring my S2 I have been doing a lot of re-design along the way. When I get done I will do a write-up on my suggested changes to make the electrical safer and more reliable.

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Originally Posted by Paul A View Post
New replacement solid state voltage stabilizer units are available from Moss Motors. Both positive and negative units are listed in their catalog. $14.99

https://mossmotors.com/solid-state-v...nd?assoc=22966
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1963 S2 w/V6 conversion
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  #13  
Old 6 Days Ago
Tom H Tom H is offline
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If the original stabilizer is bad, then replace it with a modern solid state one. I don't think they make the original type anymore anyhow.

BUT, if the old one is still working, In my opinion it's a better product than a solid state replacement. Think about it, 50 years later and it's still working! Some of that old technology is really great. I have done quite a bit of testing of these stabilizers and the gauges and found a couple things about the old design.
1) It switches on/off, using a heater and a bimetal strip to provide a constant voltage of about 10.8 RMS. The average output voltage is 10 V, but the real "heating value" of the output includes both the average or "DC" portion PLUS the on/OFF square wave "AC" portion. A solid state unit just puts out 10 V average, about 8% low.

2) Note that the 2 gauges this unit feeds also operate on a heater and bimetal principal. I think any shift in output due to ambient temperature changes is matched by similar change in the gauges.

I think the modern solid state units are fine and good enough for the application. But I do not see any advantage worth changing if the old one works.

Tom
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  #14  
Old 5 Days Ago
Alpine James Alpine James is offline
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Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Calgary
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So I properly re-mounted the stabilizer on the dash rail and checked for voltage with both a meter and test light. 12V in but zero out and no reading on the fuel gauge. Ran a jumper from the alternate input to the stabilizer direct to the fuel gauge. This did give a reading. I then repeated with a second stabilizer (used) and had the same results. I am guessing both are faulty.

There is a possibility the stabilizer was bypassed when I bought the car a few years ago. The reason I am rewiring the car was the original was such a mess. So if a solid state unit will work then I will probably try that. Having a slightly erroneous reading on the fuel gauge isn't a real problem as long as I know it.

As far as the temp gauge goes, If the gauge reading is lower, would it be by 8%? This I could see being a bit of a problem.

Thanks, James
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  #15  
Old 5 Days Ago
hartmandm hartmandm is offline
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You can compensate for the lower output of the solid state voltage stabilizer by adding a 500 ohm resistor in parallel to the sender. It won't make the readings accurate across the whole temperature range, but you can get the mid-point reading accurate. That should be sufficient for the temp gauge.

I'm working on documenting the details for adding the resistor in parallel as a compensation for the lower voltage. It may be a day or two before I have everything written up.

Mike
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  #16  
Old 3 Days Ago
Alpine James Alpine James is offline
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So I fixed the carb leak and was able to run the engine till warm. No reading on the temp gauge until I wired direct to the regulator voltage input. Gauge then worked as I suspected and confirmed my suspicion of a faulty regulator. Good to know so now I can look for a replacement.

Thanks for the help and I look forward to reading any other fixes

James
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1967 Series V B395016765 LRX
1962 Series II B91163920ODLRX
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  #17  
Old 2 Hours Ago
Alpine James Alpine James is offline
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Hi all,
Found a replacement regulator locally, installed and checked fuel gauge. Appears to work fine. Will assume temp gauge will work as well.
Thanks for the tips.
James
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1961 Series II B9100161 LRX
1967 Series V B395016765 LRX
1962 Series II B91163920ODLRX
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  #18  
Old 46 Minutes Ago
hartmandm hartmandm is offline
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Glad to hear you have something working.

Sorry for my delay in providing an update. I want to setup a test bed and gather measurements for an original voltage stabilizer and a solid state stabilizer. Then I will be able to show a side-by-side comparison of the two, and also include options for adding some compensation for the solid state stabilizer's lower voltage. Likely will need a while to gather and document all of that data, especially with holiday demands.

Mike
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