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  #21  
Old 03-27-2017
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Barry Barry is offline
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As noted in post # 18, the previous wooden mockup revealed a fatal design flaw, so a new and improved design (version III-B ???) was developed.

The first two pictures show "adapters" that will attach to the Alpine frame rails (represented by the vertical 2x4's) using the four standard crossmember attachment bolts.

The next two pictures show the crossmember that will attach to the adapters.

The last picture shows the combined adapters and crossmember.

More to come.
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  #22  
Old 04-03-2017
EriktheAwful EriktheAwful is offline
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The upper control arm cross shafts are 5/8" coarse thread, but there really isn't enough thread to safely bolt circle track heim joints onto them, which is part of why I'll be custom making a cross member for mine. The lower control arm cross shafts are 11/16" coarse thread, and there aren't any readily available heim joints in that size, and especially none that will screw into 5/8" threaded sleeves.

Edit: Just realized this is a 3-page post. Looks very nice! Are you going to share plans when you are done? I noticed you're using a triangulated lower arm. Probably smarter than me. I'm using a stock-style MII lower arm and a tension rod.

Last edited by EriktheAwful : 04-03-2017 at 10:02 PM.
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  #23  
Old 04-04-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EriktheAwful View Post

Are you going to share plans when you are done? I noticed you're using a triangulated lower arm. Probably smarter than me. I'm using a stock-style MII lower arm and a tension rod.

Never say never, but providing plans is not a great business model.

There is no difference between the geometry of a triangulated lower arm and a stock-style lower arm with a strut rod if you have a suitable location to mount the "frame end" of the strut rod. Not sure where the strut rod would mount to the Alpine unibody. Note that a rear mounted strut rod is under compression (rather than tension) during braking, so keeping it "in column" is critical.
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  #24  
Old 04-04-2017
EriktheAwful EriktheAwful is offline
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Sorry, I didn't realize you were planning some business on it.

My Alpine came pretty rough, so I have no problem welding brackets onto the frame for tension rods. I realize if they're in front they'll have to drop down pretty far to keep them nearly parallel, and they'll need a sizeable gusset. I hadn't really though about mounting them behind. Is there any reason I shouldn't?

Note - the wider the angle on your ball joint holder the easier it is to get clearance around coil overs.
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  #25  
Old 04-08-2017
Alpine66 Alpine66 is offline
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Looks good Barry, keep at it
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  #26  
Old 04-08-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EriktheAwful View Post
Sorry, I didn't realize you were planning some business on it.

My Alpine came pretty rough, so I have no problem welding brackets onto the frame for tension rods. I realize if they're in front they'll have to drop down pretty far to keep them nearly parallel, and they'll need a sizeable gusset. I hadn't really though about mounting them behind. Is there any reason I shouldn't?

Note - the wider the angle on your ball joint holder the easier it is to get clearance around coil overs.

Erik,

The M-II had front mounted strut rods, but lots of "hot rod" adaptations move the struts to the rear. There is no difference in geometry as long as the strut pivot point is in line with the inner pivot point of the lower control arm. The Alpine "frame rails" drop sharply at the firewall, so rear mounted struts might work out.

Finding room for coil overs is one of the challenges of putting 10 pounds in a 5 pound bag.
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  #27  
Old 04-09-2017
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The latest wooden mockup (version 5-something) is in the car.

At design ride height, the spindle is 13-1/2" below the top of the fender arch. With a 24" tire, the top of the fender arch is 1-1/2" above the top of the tire. I tried 1" above the top of the tire, but did not like the way it looked.

The best I can measure with a cheap gauge, the camber gain is 3 degrees at 3" of suspension compression (about +0.75 degree for the first inch, about 1.00 degree for the second inch and about 1.25 degree for the third inch).

At design ride height, the bottom of the crossmember is 5-1/2" above ground level. WSM 145 shows the ground clearance for a S-V as 4-1/2", so 5-1/2" under the crossmember should be plenty.

A factory S-V Alpine steel wheel (13") interferes with the lower ball joint; adding a 1/4" spacer almost eliminates the interference. A 14" steel wheel should be OK, but a 14" alloy wheel might be iffy. A 15" wheel clears by a mile. Upper ball joint clearance is not an issue. I don't have one to try, but it looks like a 15x7 or even 15x8 wheel should work.

Time to start building in steel.
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  #28  
Old 04-16-2017
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So much for "time to build in steel".

The bad news is that I ran into a problem with the spindle / wheel / tire being about 1" too far forward.

The good news is that moving everything 1" to the rear appears to eliminate the problem with installing the rear crossmember attachment bolts and that means I should be able to eliminate the "adapter plates".

A new wooden mockup (Version 7-something ???) is ready for installation.

More problems and "solutions" to follow.
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  #29  
Old 04-17-2017
Alpine66 Alpine66 is offline
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Making progress Barry, good luck with the latest version
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  #30  
Old 04-17-2017
Bill Blue Bill Blue is offline
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Isn't it great to solve a problem, only to discover it was never a problem? How many times???? How many unnecessary prototypes can a man build?? The answer, my friend, is blowing in the wind.

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