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Old 09-10-2017
RootesRooter's Avatar
RootesRooter RootesRooter is offline
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Default Hitachi alternator mounting

Decided to switch to the Hitachi unit to resolve a charging problem. I'd already done this to my other SV. On that one, a friend with a welder filled the existing holes on the stock mounting bracket and redrilled them right next to the old holes (think of a figure-8). That aligned the new pulley.

I've read here where other owners have simply re-positioned the Hitachi unit on the front of the stock bracket and they thought the alignment turned out fine. I tried that tonight. From what I can see, the alt pulley is about 1/2" forward. It appears there's just enough clearance for the belt.

Does anyone have long-term experience with this slightly off-kilter setup? Any burned out bushings?

BTW, Hitachi's unit has been replaced by remanufactured units of in-house brands at Autozone, O'Reilly's, etc.
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Old 09-10-2017
Tom H Tom H is offline
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I am 99% sure that running with a misaligned alt pulley will have a very poor result. When I did my Hitachi ALt conversion I had to elongate the holes in the bracket. But others have typically not had to do so, but still had pulleys aligned and I do not understand how they achieved that. But you must get them aligned. Otherwise I think the belt will overheat and fly off.

Tom
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Old 09-10-2017
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Ken Ellis Ken Ellis is offline
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If you have access to a milling machine, you can skip the welding. Or visit a machine shop for 10 minutes. I did this with an end mill.

http://www.sunbeamalpine.org/forum/a...1&d=1505045340
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Old 09-11-2017
Jay Laifman Jay Laifman is offline
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I would have to go look. I seem to recall that I made two short thick aluminum pieces with two holes, maybe 2" apart. I just mounted them to the tabs on the alternator and used fender washers to space it out perfectly. Perhaps a bit crude. But it mounted perfectly and 25 years later, no issue.

Let me know if that doesn't make sense.

I seem to recall that one of them might have spread across the front of the front tab and the front of the mount, with one or two washers on one of them, and the rear tap had a slightly larger gap, but also filled with washers. But I could have that switched around in my memory.
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Old 09-12-2017
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That about looks like the first bracket I had done, except the original holes were filled in first for strength.
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Old 09-12-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tom H View Post
I am 99% sure that running with a misaligned alt pulley will have a very poor result. When I did my Hitachi ALt conversion I had to elongate the holes in the bracket. But others have typically not had to do so, but still had pulleys aligned and I do not understand how they achieved that. But you must get them aligned. Otherwise I think the belt will overheat and fly off.

Tom

Right on! A v-belt will tolerate a little misalignment, but a serpentine belt is much less forgiving.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
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What are folks using for the adjusting strap / top mounting bracket for the Hitachi alternator? It seems like the upper mounting hole is clocked at 12 o'clock on the Hitachi and about 10 o'clock on the stock Lucas, relative to the bottom mounting holes. Doesn't that mean that the alternator top mounting hole will want to sit past the end of the stock mounting strap?
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
Jay Laifman Jay Laifman is offline
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I just got a nice chrome aftermarket one at my local auto parts store. Probably Pep Boys, maybe Napa. I've found that at least our local Napa has guys who actually know about cars.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
Hillman Hillman is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mightyohm View Post
What are folks using for the adjusting strap / top mounting bracket for the Hitachi alternator?
I made one out of a scrap piece of steel. Drill the appropriate size holes at each end of the 'adjustment range' and using a staight edge and a cutting wheel on a dremel, cut the slot.
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Old 3 Weeks Ago
Tom H Tom H is offline
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I added an extension. Bolted a short adjuster I found at a junk yard and simply bolted it to the end of the original adjuster, at a slight angle to make a hockey-stick-shaped adjuster.

It's held up for 21,000 miles so far.

But be sure to strain relieve the heavy cable to the B+ post, with a clamp or tie wrap, so the engine vibration does not cause the wire to break right near the post.

Tom
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